tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12350725219152303302024-02-18T20:26:27.670-08:00Wollumbin WoodsticksHollow Wooden SurfboardsCraighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-81514504976236888272017-12-25T12:31:00.000-08:002017-12-25T12:31:27.886-08:00Paulownia Mini - Simmons 5'6" Slideshow<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TK2b3JUauNY&feature=youtu.be">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TK2b3JUauNY&feature=youtu.be</a>Craighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-77030476943113310172014-09-12T04:09:00.001-07:002014-09-12T04:09:50.379-07:00Building a hollow unglassed wooden fish surfboard using paulownia with ...<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="344" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/TWrylnmQ2M0" width="459"></iframe><br />Craighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-28314715088105599892014-07-02T04:00:00.002-07:002014-07-02T04:01:28.246-07:00Moods of Wollumbin Slideshow<a href="http://vimeo.com/81480700">http://vimeo.com/81480700</a><br />
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Craighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-19972982335715660142013-07-08T03:59:00.000-07:002014-09-01T15:28:49.902-07:00Hollow Wooden Egg Slideshow<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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If the video doesn't work - here's the link <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLyqZPFwZgE&feature=youtu.be">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLyqZPFwZgE&feature=youtu.be</a></div>
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This is a hollow wooden egg 6' 10" x 20 3/4". I used a bit of western red cedar , a bit of huon pine & good ol' paulownia . Glassed it with kinetix epoxy & gave it a poly finish coat & polish. Weight came in at 6.1 kgs. Its got a 12" finbox as well as side plugs.</div>
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Craighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-9206656817941585032012-03-13T03:18:00.022-07:002012-05-15T15:53:02.051-07:00Raw Fish - 5' 9" x 21"How goes it cyber surfers? This is a story about a fish I'm building ( my first). After watching the movie "One California Day" & seeing Joe Curran & Joel Tudor ripping on their fishes , I thought it might be time to give one a try - so why not build my own out of wood. After doing a bit of research on the net I came up with a design - pretty similar to Jim Banks's planshapes - but with a mccoy dome or convex bottom - most people go with concaves or flat bottoms - but I know the dome works on all the boards I've made - so cant see why it wont work on a fish. It was origionally going to be just a twinnie with keels - but quads get a big wrap - so I'm going to use 4 fin plugs & try it as a twinnie & a quaddie - why not experiment?<br />
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The timber used for skins & ribs is 6 mm Paulownia. I like to go with a 5mm plywood spine for a bit of extra strength. Ribs are 6 inches apart. The board is going to be finished with tung & orange oil. Glue used Titebond 111<br />
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DIMENSIONS :<br />
5 ft 9 inch X 21 inch X 2 3/4 inch<br />
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Heres some pix<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA3L-dmuoLMymDldXlM1fDdh2bS53XtxrlbAeDXmyrzcbXPI1uwJf9VUz0BY3sgTwnRJ6Xo1x8jVHkizhi16sgmP0cbAeKmcv6cIo5sn_fKhtyGUNEmUyobYSLNC8MfBthlVOLfYEfcGk/s1600/P1010010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA3L-dmuoLMymDldXlM1fDdh2bS53XtxrlbAeDXmyrzcbXPI1uwJf9VUz0BY3sgTwnRJ6Xo1x8jVHkizhi16sgmP0cbAeKmcv6cIo5sn_fKhtyGUNEmUyobYSLNC8MfBthlVOLfYEfcGk/s640/P1010010.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Chine strips secured with sewing pins inserted using multi grips<br />
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Frame clamped to rocker table during assembly<br />
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Frame secured to a second rocker table with bottom facing up - ready <br />
for bottom skins to be glued on<br />
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First bottom strip 145 mm wide X 6mm thick<br />
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This is the tail end - that block of wood attached to the spine is only temporarily in place to help hold the skin to the spine when gluing - It will be cut off when I jigsaw the fish tail outline<br />
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Bottom skinned & ready for rails - I've left 30mm outside of chine strips for the rails- which will consist of 4 timber strips at 7.5mm wide - the 2 outside rail strips will be solid timbers - while the 2 inside strips will be similar to the chine strips, ie - a separate bit at top & bottom<br />
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This is the first bottom rail strip getting glued on - I'm using 7.5 mm square balsa for the inside bottom 2 rail strips </div>
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This is the first top inside rail strip getting glued on - ( you can see the bottom 2 balsa strips already glued on) - I'm using a 12 mm deep strip for first one & 15 mm deep strip for second - the strips are cut with the rocker curve in them as I find this avoids the twisting you get when using straight bits<br />
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The above shots show the outside rail strips with bottom rocker curve cut - so they sit nice & flush against the bottom skin - ( I use my plywood rocker template to get these curves ) The other shots show the amount of inward & downward clamping pressure applied - & the last shot shows all the rail strips glued on & ready to be sawn flush with the first & last ribs - ready for nose & tail blocks to be glued in place<br />
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I like to glue small balsa cross pieces to the ribs to increase the glueing width of ribs - makes it stronger</div>
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Rails trimmed flush with first & last ribs - fish tail jig-sawed</div>
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Solid nose blocks being glued on </div>
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I sanded the rails to the angle of the ribs - (so the top skin can sit neatly on ribs & rails) firstly using a belt sander- then a bit of final hand sanding to get it accurate. You can also see in this shot above that I have glued in some 100mm wide x 2 1/2 mm thick balsa sheets to the inside of the bottom skins - I would'nt bother doing this on a glassed board - but because its going to have an oiled finish , I'm trying to add extra strength where I can</div>
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After an epic surf trip down the mid north coast - scoring multiple east swells & nice autumn conditions - it was back to work on the fish</div>
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Before skinning the deck I added some balsa blocks for the fin plugs & some extra balsa reo around the tail to give the skin more of a gluing surface - also made a vent plug hole</div>
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To reinforce the deck I added little intermediate ribs which were about 5mm wide by 12 mm deep - these were notched into the spine & the chines - also glued 6mm square balsa cross pieces to all the ribs to increase glue join- next up I glued on the deck skins which are 6mm thick</div>
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Fully skinned - I forgot to mention that I varnished the inside before skinning to seal the internal structure in case it ever gets water in it . To seal the underside of the deck skins I used a foam roller to thinly coat the boards with glue , as I glued them on - this should make the board totally waterproof inside</div>
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Got some annoying pink stains in the bottom timbers after taking board off the rocker table - some sort of mould I'd guess - eventually got rid of it after lots of sanding - almost gone in this shot below</div>
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Now for a few artistic touches to make the board more visually appealing</div>
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Timber used here is black wattle</div>
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Nose block timber is Durian</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjxXDnk8zNlGSb96e67J8G5wD8th526dYICybO1cB3PmvF8wVkkbu110zIC6nUlAbHufhSbRNzIbIdzn7Hh3fjfbRFN0XfSG1bw4M7Y_Oi8K4UFhtm4Wv8jcIJgsuUPYVFYDpwxaOU2o/s1600/P1010352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjxXDnk8zNlGSb96e67J8G5wD8th526dYICybO1cB3PmvF8wVkkbu110zIC6nUlAbHufhSbRNzIbIdzn7Hh3fjfbRFN0XfSG1bw4M7Y_Oi8K4UFhtm4Wv8jcIJgsuUPYVFYDpwxaOU2o/s640/P1010352.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tail block timber is Camphour Laurel</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNeaGGy-JiUUmjx_c8euCLJVIVffVIbsEGZH36PcdcUW_sjP_LvLv60jyr9Gowv5iJbEDfDKh7DPSlEhKVYLpTnP_4DXHi65grmcxQfX8G0IGDN5v-XPaEvkeb04azhXIoNyGI3Ovv1p8/s1600/P1010359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNeaGGy-JiUUmjx_c8euCLJVIVffVIbsEGZH36PcdcUW_sjP_LvLv60jyr9Gowv5iJbEDfDKh7DPSlEhKVYLpTnP_4DXHi65grmcxQfX8G0IGDN5v-XPaEvkeb04azhXIoNyGI3Ovv1p8/s640/P1010359.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Thought it needed more - so I added a few bits of Huon Pine for contrast<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu4tQTMBd_kpmZsltH1ZSSxO0oetxi7-mPK8lQfgJ6BljEOHbUs19PK2_Xq-DIwkuWoRzfL9NKtwjsR6at_EKBtSCfkF1dHty0f72QUfYtBdZmT6kYpOJwwFH00XzFIj7Ds-Q1SG0ZlAY/s1600/P1010369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu4tQTMBd_kpmZsltH1ZSSxO0oetxi7-mPK8lQfgJ6BljEOHbUs19PK2_Xq-DIwkuWoRzfL9NKtwjsR6at_EKBtSCfkF1dHty0f72QUfYtBdZmT6kYpOJwwFH00XzFIj7Ds-Q1SG0ZlAY/s640/P1010369.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finished logo with native bees slurping down the ancient oils of the Huon Pine </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOOFkMXcH3bIZduKhewMOWJ_TL14Ix17_nu1511G8RAkEErwC1SjcfbRaz-Z-jFRLDcUNU9YukIPsLJOXgALP1ulinX8n1knE4SIMvOcQTYLLkEBswMpXqTWStYc1LTPC69vLRvVXbYDU/s1600/P1010376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOOFkMXcH3bIZduKhewMOWJ_TL14Ix17_nu1511G8RAkEErwC1SjcfbRaz-Z-jFRLDcUNU9YukIPsLJOXgALP1ulinX8n1knE4SIMvOcQTYLLkEBswMpXqTWStYc1LTPC69vLRvVXbYDU/s640/P1010376.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nose & tail blocks sanded<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwtE7uf8vMuYEKSIiiZjlUB3KbpC8DuAvRD8jha8hZrlQk_ZI7BTek34_2qdQ0U0yaLZneR8iqAw-dIfIGcGGwIB6M5nzLQtO7zi92wQrB2PouZKaUPV4_FP0yAUZNpNb3_ldSo5qG0E/s1600/P1010380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwtE7uf8vMuYEKSIiiZjlUB3KbpC8DuAvRD8jha8hZrlQk_ZI7BTek34_2qdQ0U0yaLZneR8iqAw-dIfIGcGGwIB6M5nzLQtO7zi92wQrB2PouZKaUPV4_FP0yAUZNpNb3_ldSo5qG0E/s640/P1010380.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The timbers used here are Black Wattle for the circle & Pink Ivory for the petals<br />
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As far as fin positioning goes - I had to go with my intuition - as there are so many different configurations around. What I came up with was :</div>
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1) to point the front fin to 85 mm outside the nose & the back fin was positioned parallel to the front fin.</div>
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2) Rear tip of front fin 11 inches from tail tip. Rear tip of back fin 6 inches from tail tip</div>
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3) Rear tip of front fin 1 & 1/4 inches in from rail. Rear tip of back fin 1 & 1/2 inches in from rail</div>
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4) Both front & back fins same cant angle of around 5 degrees</div>
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5) About 3/4 to 1 inch gap between front & back fins</div>
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Hope it works!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhobg4E1H_of5IQrNeb9v9Jf8OD9neTuWOn-GCvn0bdt08Im-Jv5OL7EqmAazMjxVBWcnPdFGLrckIv2GpkKvZFKe5TRIARgRfpImlNGUsjMQEBzllC67Qvt7jO1_8j7s3o0mFRXcK0CSI/s1600/P1010871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhobg4E1H_of5IQrNeb9v9Jf8OD9neTuWOn-GCvn0bdt08Im-Jv5OL7EqmAazMjxVBWcnPdFGLrckIv2GpkKvZFKe5TRIARgRfpImlNGUsjMQEBzllC67Qvt7jO1_8j7s3o0mFRXcK0CSI/s640/P1010871.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A drilling template is essential to get the holes accurate</div>
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Holes drilled & a seal coat of epoxy</div>
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An 80 grit sanding disc in a drill was an easy way to get the plugs flush with bottom</div>
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Before I oiled the board I decided to apply marine varnish to the nose & tail blocks & logo to properly seal the timbers - did 4 coats </div>
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Just a piece lint free cloth wrapped around a ball of cloth & tied with string is all you need to apply the oil - too easy!</div>
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These shots are of the : <br />
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1st coat of oil - which was a 70% tung oil 30% orange oil mix - mixed with citrus turps . Ratio 2/3 oil to 1/3 turps</div>
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2nd coat will be the same formula then- </div>
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3rd coat will be 70/30 oil mix then-</div>
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4th coat will be 50/50 oil mix</div>
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This is a shot of the 2nd oil coat which I did 24 hours after the 1st coat - notice the darker tone</div>
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These shots above were taken just after applying the 4th oil coat - thats why its lookin really shiny & wet. The 3rd coat took about 9 days to dry (lots of wet weather). So I have to be patient & wait another week or so for the final coat to dry . All up the oiling process takes about 3 weeks. In the meantime I'm making a few sets of fins <br />
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I'm making 2 quad sets of different shapes & a set of twinnie keels - all made of Camphour Laurel offcuts.<br />
I sand the wood down to 4mm thick - then do a thin seal coat - then 2 epoxy laminate coats using 4 oz mat - followed by 2 fill coats of epoxy - then finished with a coat of polyester finishing resin - sanded between each coat with 180 grit - then finish sanded with grades of wet & dry up to 1200 grit - then a quick polish which really brings out the richness of colour. After all these coats the fins are slightly thicker than the 6mm fin slots & just require a bit of hand sanding of the bases to make them fit - also for the first time I drilled a slight recess in the bases where the screw meets the fin - so I don't loose them if I hit rocks etc. ( see shot below ). Lots of work making wooden fins, but they look good.<br />
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The finished board with quad set - I ended up doing 6 coats of oil - mainly because the 4th coat was a bit blotchy & also because the more coats I did the better it looked & also because the weather was dry & warm & the last 2 coats only took a few days to dry. I also sanded in between the final coats with 2500 grit paper - this made it feel nice & smooth.<br />
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I forgot to mention that I made a plywood mold ( shot below ) slightly larger than the fins & poured a fin halo - for colour I used some brown & yellow oxide powder - the stuff they use for grouting to colour tile grout - the trick is to mix it really well to get rid of any powdery lumps - I usually mix my epoxy for about 5 minutes anyway - so this was enough.<br />
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Final weight 5.2 kgs - happy with that - the other wooden board I usually ride weighs 6.8 kgs - so this is gonna feel a lot lighter - the oiling only added about 100grams</div>
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Close up of vent screw - I'm using marine grade stainless steel 10mm - the bolt screws into 3 nuts that I epoxied together & set into wood - the bolt has 2 holes drilled - one thru the middle & one at a right angle - so I only have to unscrew it a few turns to release the pressure. On earlier boards I used brass - but it tends to get a green corrosion that clogs up the thread - so I reckon the 316 stainless is the go</div>
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I used a bit of a paulownia offcut from the skins - to make this wax scraper/comb - then gave it a few coats of oil - took me a whole 5 minutes </div>
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That's it - ready for the surf</div>
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<br /></div>Craighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-48152310609613229102011-12-21T13:13:00.000-08:002011-12-21T13:21:56.401-08:00A Couple of Earlier Boards<div><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Heres a few links to some earlier boards which I did build threads for on Tree to Sea.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: Calibri;">They explain in more detail the building methods I've tried.</span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://www.grainsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2831">http://www.grainsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2831</a> This is my first attempt - A chambered one</span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://www.grainsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3585">http://www.grainsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3585</a> This is my next one - a HWS mini - nugget</span> </div>Craighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-1150940862355954132011-12-13T01:02:00.000-08:002012-01-03T00:49:01.341-08:002 New WoodiesHeres a few pix of my latest boards which I've been working on in tandem for the last few months.<br />
Both are the same design & dimensions modelled on McCoy's designs.<br />
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Both boards are FOR SALE . If your interested send me an email to discuss price .<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: yellow;">STATS</span><br />
6ft 4 inch x 20 inch x 3 inch<br />
17inch tail<br />
13 1/2 inch nose<br />
Wide point - 3 inches behind halfway<br />
Bottom - 4mm convex<br />
Fins - one board has glassed on thruster setup<br />
Other board has 10 inch fin box & side fin plugs<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: orange;">TIMBERS USED</span><br />
Skins - 5mm paulownia, silky oak , red cedar , huon pine<br />
Ribs -6mm paulownia<br />
Spine - 5mm marine ply<br />
Parquet mandalas - huon, silky, black wattle, camphour, paulownia & red cedar<br />
Fins - Tasmanian Sassafras - Huon pine , red cedar - epoxy coated<br />
Finish- kinetix epoxy lam & fill coat - polyester finish coat -wet sanded to 2500 grit , buff & polish<br />
Inside of board - sealed with varnish<br />
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</div>Craighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-43294648337450810842011-10-07T17:55:00.000-07:002011-10-08T02:10:44.720-07:00More Pix<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9gOd5VqUhTOG85r6KBe4SxTzN7eaCKuelv754r7Kdp84ceQJYyne6J72J8wEVQ0w0FGv1EZGs5PDnSJpCqw7UTpYc9hA-gBaBGM5Ys9mAV84o7mjQpARBzJrx8KAZJuDqDQcuysMLchk/s1600/P4210261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9gOd5VqUhTOG85r6KBe4SxTzN7eaCKuelv754r7Kdp84ceQJYyne6J72J8wEVQ0w0FGv1EZGs5PDnSJpCqw7UTpYc9hA-gBaBGM5Ys9mAV84o7mjQpARBzJrx8KAZJuDqDQcuysMLchk/s1600/P4210261.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Heres a youtube of the oiling process</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This is the last coat of oil on my hollow wooden mini mal. There were 3 previous coats . </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The 1st coat was 35% tung oil + 15% orange oil + 50% citrus turpentine. I used about 200ml on the 1st coat - the raw timber really soaked it up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The second coat which I did 24 hours later , was the same 70/30 oil mix with only 33% citrus turps. This coat soaked up about 70 ml.<br />
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</div>The 3rd coat I did about 5 days later [ each coat takes longer to dry - depending on weather conditions]. This coat was 70% tung oil + 30% orange oil, no turps. It soaked up 50 ml.<br />
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</div>The 4th & final coat I did 8 days after the 3rd. For this coat I used 50% tung oil + 50% orange oil. I used more orange oil as it is supposed to help the tung oil harden.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">As you can see by the photo below the water beads really well on the oiled surface</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>Craighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03483942013087282621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1235072521915230330.post-13949291498461525112011-10-07T03:34:00.000-07:002011-10-07T14:13:06.186-07:00Third Wooden Board - 7 ft x 20 1/2 inch mini - malHeya - Craig here - I live in the Caldera region of northern NSW overlooking Mt Warning (Wollumbin). Been dabblin' with hollow wooden boards for the past few years now - learning the skills required - & feeling the buzz of making my own wooden surfsticks. This one posted here is my most recent one a 7 ft mini mal which has a tung/orange oil finish.It has a 6mm marine ply spine & 6mm paulownia ribs . The deck skin is 7mm paulownia & the bottom skin is 6mm paulownia. The ribs are spaced 150 mm apart- plus on the deck I added small intermediate ribs between the main ribs for extra strength & on the bottom I added thin 2mm balsa sheets- it feels more than strong enough. The tail & nose blocks are made of black wattle & huon pine. The fins are made of camphour laurel & red cedar & are glassed with fibreglass. The inside is sealed with varnish & the airvent plug is 10 mm stainless steel. It took me over 200 hours to complete which is a lot - but I'm real happy with the quality of the final board. Heres a few snaps of the construction<br />
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